I’ve often wondered why yellow cake with chocolate frosting is no longer as popular as it was in my childhood. I love the contrast between a simply flavored (vanilla) sponge and a rich frosting of chocolate or coffee. But when I’m at a bakery, grocery store or restaurant, what I usually see is chocolate cake in all its variations —as long as you like chocolate with chocolate, occasionally with a fruity accent. Chocolate sponges or dense chocolate tortes just don’t excite me: The lusciousness of Theobroma often becomes dull bitterness, or heavy dullness. Chocolate in a softer form such as a mousse, soufflé, drink, or a truffled delicacy holds my attention with more success. As does a good frosting.
Mocha frosted on the left, with coffee bean; choco-frosted on the right.
My search was brief yet successful: Shuna Fish Lydon’s excellent yellow cake and chocolate frosting recipes became the impetus for me to finally make cupcakes topped with chocolate. (Here I applaud cooks and food writers like Lydon who list their ingredients by weight rather than volume, which greatly aids in measuring tricky powdery substances (flour, confectioner’s sugar) and lumpy items (butter). Now if everyone would just standardize and use metric consistently, including myself. :-|) I pretty much followed her cake recipe (which yielded two dozen happy cakelets), except that I substituted buttermilk for the whole milk. And for some reason my cupcakes took 25 to 27 minutes at 350F to bake, rather than 12 to 14 minutes. (Every oven, Lydon points out, has its quirks, of course.)
Lyndon’s frosting is more like a soft ganache in texture, somewhat firmer compared with buttercream frosting. However, you can make it softer by adding more cream after blending in the confectioner’s sugar. I fiddled a bit with the recipe, though, and also made a mocha version. This variation makes a generous amount for a dozen cupcakes, or a single layer (8 or 9 inch) of cake —about 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 cups.
Update (12-March-2008). Added info below for using liquor flavorings. Great for lovers of Grand Marnier, Royal Chambord, rum, etc.
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