Or, version 2.0 of chocolate chip cookies. Over the years, I’ve found version 1.0 a bit too flat (in texture), a bit too hard-chewy, and even a bit too bitter. I’ve found a better source of chocolate chips (Guittard’s baking wafers), and a great resource for hacking the recipe.
My tastes are not the same as J. Kenji Lopez-Alt’s, but his recipe and guidelines are very informative and helpful. The biggest differences are that I use a lot less salt, whole wheat pastry flour instead of all purpose, vanilla sugar instead of extract, and am generous with orange flavorings.
Note that I refrigerate the dough overnight, so preheating the oven would occur prior to baking. I’ve had the dough sit happily in the fridge for two days. I haven’t yet tried freezing the dough, but I could imagine doing so after forming it into balls. This recipe can be easily doubled; I used this batch size in order to maximize the number of experimental runs. O:)
Update (26 February 2014): Yep, frozen cookies bake up just fine!
Ingredients
- 4 ounces (1 stick) unsalted butter
- zest of 1 medium orange
- 1 to 2 tablespoons orange juice (from the same orange, conveniently); start with less initially
- 1 tablespoon Grand Marnier liqueur
- 6 1/2 to 7 1/2 ounces whole wheat pastry flour; a mixture with whole grain bread flour works nicely, too
- 1/4 teaspoon baking powder
- 1/4 teaspoon baking soda
- 4 1/2 ounces semisweet or bittersweet chocolate chunks; I like Guittard’s 61% cocoa semisweet cooking wafers, but if you prefer less sweetness, their 72% bittersweet cocoa wafers are also good.
- 2 1/2 ounces dark brown sugar, e.g., Billington’s dark brown molasses sugar
- 2 1/2 ounces sugar, 1 ounce of which is vanilla sugar
- 3/8 teaspoon salt
- 1 egg, at room temperature
Method
- Brown the butter in a sauce pan. I do this over medium to medium-low heat, until the milk proteins start turning orange-red (like paprika) in color. Remove from heat, and stir in the Grand Marnier, and allow to cool while you do the next two steps.
- Sift the flour and baking soda through a strainer into a medium bowl. Grind or mash (via food processor or a handy rolling pin) the brown sugar so that there aren’t any lumps; stir this into the flour bowl. Set aside.
- Break up the chocolate into roughly 1/2 to 1/4-inch pieces; it’s okay if there are some larger and smaller pieces. I put the wafers in a zip back and gently smash them with a rolling pin. Set aside.
- Returning to the melted butter: Stir in the orange zest—which I grate right over the sauce pan—and the juice. Set aside, again.
- In a stand mixer with a whisk attachment, beat the sugar, vanilla sugar, salt, and egg until pale and thick (densely foamy)—about 3 to 5 minutes on high speed.
- Lower the speed of the mixer, and slowly add the butter-orange mixture. Increase the speed to medium and mix until incorporated. Don’t worry if the mixture looks somewhat curdled or like a lumpy frosting.
- Replace the whisk with a paddle attachment. Add the chocolate and mix for 10 to 20 seconds on low speed.
- Pour in all of the flour-brown sugar, and mix until just barely incorporated, on low to medium-low speed, for about 10 to 20 seconds. The resulting dough shouldn’t be smooth, but instead kind of rough-spiky looking, with specks of undissolved brown sugar; see the photo below. If it seems really dry and floury, add a bit more orange juice; if it seems too wet and sticky, add a bit more flour.
- Store the dough in a medium bowl (I reuse the flour bowl), covered, in the refrigerator, at least over night. This helps in developing good flavor and texture, so try not to skip this step.
- Preheat the oven to 325ºF degrees (mine is set to “convection baking,” so if you don’t use convection, you might need to raise the temperature by 25º).
- Line a baking pan with a silicone mat or parchment paper. Using a scoop and/or spoons, place dough blobs of about 2 tablespoons in size on the line pan. I can fit about 12 cookies on a full-sized 16-inch by 11-inch jelly roll pan.
- Place pan in oven, reduce the temperature to 300ºF (or 325ºF in a non-convection oven), and bake until the edges start to brown—about 12 to 18 minutes—more time if the dough was frozen, about 4 to 7 minutes more. Cool on pan for about 5 to 10 minutes before moving to a rack. Repeat for remaining dough, after the pan has cooled to the touch‐this batch makes about 20 to 24 cookies.
- You could eat the cookies while warm—I do love melty choco!—but both the texture and flavor are much better several hours later, if not the day after. They have a much less greasy feel, and the orange flavor is more pronounced the next day.
The small, non-chocolate brown specks are undissolved dark brown sugar bits, and the overall texture is kind of spiky, not smooth. Good features for a soft, tender cookie texture!
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